I recently took a road trip up to Santa Barbara county from Los Angeles and stayed in the Santa Ynez Valley where many of the wineries that had been recommended to me were located. While I went to a lot of lovely wineries and tried many great wines, it was what was referred to as the 'heirloom' varieties by Kenneth Volk that became a highlight of this trip.
These four varieties, that I had never seen or tasted before, were Negrette, Aglianico, Touriga and Cabernet Pfeffer. All are red grape varieties with varied origins based within or near the Mediterranean. In the case of Cabernet Pfeffer, information is scarce but it seems to be a name born out of California for a variety that was not recognised in the United States, known in France and Argentina as Gros Verdot. If anyone has further information to share on the origins of Cabernet Pfeffer please leave a comment.
I purchased one bottle of each variety and over the course of a week tried each wine on at least two separate occasions. My thoughts on each variety are below.
Negrette 08 - A lighter bodied red wine that is said to have properties of both Pinot Noir and Syrah/Shiraz. It is purple in colour with perhaps a dash of raspberry-like red that had fruit and herb like aromas, fruit driven flavours and just the slightest hint of sweetness left on the palate upon finish.
Price - $24
Aglianico 08 - Light blood red in colour with a tiny hint of purple to the edges. The aroma was full of red berry fruit and had a small touch of oak/wood. Perhaps it comes as no surprise that the Italian variety is full bodied, highly tanic and perhaps not the most enjoyable variety on its own at this age. My least favourite of the four wines but throw in a fatty piece of meat or give it ten years and it is likely to be a much more enjoyable experience.
Price - $28
Touriga 09 - Cherry red in colour with a hint of purple with an aroma that was not all that alluring and came across as 'dusty' for lack of something more descriptive. The flavour was rather unique but some more familiar juicy fruit flavours did come through and I found the after taste of the wine very pleasant and reminiscent of a candy I loved as child known as Hooley Dooleys, which Skittles seemed to replace.
Price - $36
Cabernet Pfeffer 07 - A rather light, but attractive scarlet like red in colour with a floral aroma and noticeable red berry fruit and a touch of pepper. On the palate it was mainly those red berry fruit flavours and a bit of spice that remained but it was all well balanced. There was a rather subtle but odd salty aftertaste that I found unusual but not overly unpleasant.
$34
NOTE: The Cabernet Pfeffer and Negrette are grown in San Benito County while the Touriga and Aglianico are grown in Paso Robles.
I would like to give a more than an honourable mention to the fact that the Tempranillo, Mouvedre and Zinfandel from Kenneth Volk. All were also fantastic wines that I highly recommend and show that red varieties are clearly Kenneth's strength and probable preference.